So, how to prune a Japanese maple? Firstly, try to visualise the shape you are hoping to achieve and cut to that imaginary line. If there are one or two strong growing branches that need to be pruned, cut back inside the line by a few buds as there will be more subsequent growth from these branches than other, smaller branches. A second cut can be done in the summer when light trimming of the subsequent growth will bring the tree back within your imaginary line.
When to prune is quite critical and many commentators will say you should prune Japanese maples in the spring. This, unfortunately, is bad advice as two things will happen if done at this time. Firstly, the cut surfaces will bleed. This attracts insects and is a possible route of entry for fungal infections. Painting the cut doesn't help as this just traps fungi and bacterial spores that have landed on the surface the moment it was cut. Secondly, the sap that is coming out would have been used to produce new growth and the amount of growth produced will be reduced, depending on how hard you have pruned.
The optimum time to do any major pruning is going to be between November and January but ideally it should be done before Christmas. If you have very cold winters and new growth doesn't appear until April, then January and early February is a safe time. In areas with a mild winter, root activity never fully stops and as a result sap bleeding can be quite profuse depending on how vigorous the plant is. A light trim can be done once the tree is in growth by pinching out the tips after the first two or three pairs of leaves have developed.
Slightly more substantial trimming of your Japanese maple can be done in the summer once the new shoots have lignified, ie, ripened. The plant is now concentrating on building up food reserves in the roots so sap bleeding is not an issue but remember that the plant needs the leaves for energy production so try to keep shoot removal to the minimum. Far better to wait until winter when the branch structure can be clearly seen and you can visualise your cutting line better.
One suggestion you will sometimes come across is to prune inside the tree 'to let the air in'. A moments thought will realise the fatuity of that statement; the centre of the tree does not exist in a vacuum and air is always going to get in! As I mentioned at the beginning, if the leaves of a particular branch are not getting enough light because it's being excessively shaded, it will die back of it's own accord.
Sometimes, when branches cross and start rubbing against each other, the temptation is to cut one of them out. A better course of action, especially if the bark has been rubbed off from both branches, is to tie them together. Two things will then happen; the obvious one being that they will stop rubbing. The second thing that will happen is the branches will callus and fuse together resulting in stronger growth of the dominant branch. This will normally take one or sometimes two seasons, after which the weaker branch can be cut back to the joint (but only in winter!). Polythene tape or insulation tape can be used but remember to replace it every few months or it will cut into the bark.
Heavy Pruning of a young plant should preferably be avoided for the first few years to allow it to build up strong root system but during this time it will be amenable to basic shaping depending on what type of plant you've purchased. Upright, spreading or low growing dissectum types can be encouraged to form specific shapes at an early age by appropriate staking and trimming rather than allowing them to become too open and sparse.
If you want any more information on pruning or any other aspect of their care, visit Growing Japanese maples
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